The greatest dangers of surfing aren’t the animals beneath the surface

Right away, surfer Mike Morita knew it was a shark. 

 

With his foot clenched in its jaws, Morita wrapped his body and arms around the eight-foot tiger shark. Face-to-face with the powerful animal, Morita struggled to jab its eyes. Instead he found himself grasping at its gills in an effort to set himself free.

 

Morita escaped and thanks to other fellow surfers, was able to make it back to shore. Unfortunately, he lost his right foot in the attack, but is lucky to be alive.

 

The brutal attack occurred two weeks ago at Kewalo Basin, a popular spot on Oahu’s South Shore, which is known for its iconic breaks and thriving surf culture. As the community faces the reality of the attack, many surfers are reflecting on what real dangers await them out in the waves. 

 

“It’s tiger shark breeding time, so when the tiger sharks give birth, they’re really hungry, " said local surfer Solomon Kawamae. "You have all these young tiger sharks swimming around, just trying to figure out their territory."

 

At Bowls surf break just down the road, every surfer interviewed said the biggest danger that comes with surfing isn’t the sharks. Between inexperienced surfers, reefs, and the power of the ocean itself, it's clear that there’s far greater dangers besides the animals living beneath the surface. 

 

Morita's recent encounter may have made national headlines, but for many surfers, it was just another reminder of the risks they take every time they paddle out. 

 

“I saw a shark jump out of the water once… it scared me a little bit,” said surfer Grace Maccollough. 

 

However, Maccollough said she doesn't usually feel scared when she gets in the water. What helps her feel safe is just being mindful of her surroundings. 

 

“Just being more aware and vigilant of the world around me and what space I’m taking up helps,” said Maccollough. 

 

The inexperienced surfers in the water pose one of the biggest threats, those at the Bowls agreed.

 

“I’m more in danger of beginner surfers. I worry about them more than I do about the sharks,” said Kawamae. 

 

Many of the surfers we spoke with reported little to no change of their cautiousness while being in the water after the event of the attack. Although surfer Lola Wiegner said she isn’t afraid of sharks, she knows people who won’t get in the water anymore since the attack. 

 

“I live with a host family and they used to come surfing with me but when the shark attack happened, they never came again,” said Wiegner. She was surfing just a couple of breaks over from the site of the attack when it occurred.

 

The dangers of reef breaks also cannot be underestimated. Between the size and power of the waves and reefs, concussions, whiplash, fractures, and other injuries are more likely to occur from hitting a reef rather than getting attacked by a shark.

 

“The only thing I am afraid of is the reef… or huge waves,” said Wiegner. 

 

Despite these risks, the surfers we spoke with were quick to emphasize that they wouldn't let the fear of sharks hold them back from doing what they love. 

 

“It’s random if a shark attack happens. It’s not very often. We see the sharks all the time but not too many shark attacks,” said Solomon Kawamae. “My perception of being a surfer and also being native to Hawaii, that’s part of the nature and the ecosystem that we live in so we know they (sharks) are there but we love surfing so much that we’re gonna take those chances.” 

 

Surfing is a sport that is deeply ingrained in Hawaiian culture. Despite the inherent risks, these surfers still choose the thrill of riding the waves every day. Surfing continues to grow in popularity around the world. For many, the thrill is worth the risks.

 

But with that thrill comes a great responsibility. Surfers must always be aware of their surroundings and respect the power of the ocean. 

 

The recent shark attack at Kewalo Basin is a sobering reminder that surfers can never let their guard down while being in the water.

 

“You just go where they (sharks) are not, usually,” said Dane, a surfer visiting Oahu from Kauai. “You try to go to the low frequency spots. Don’t be at their spot at their time. You’re way more likely to just have your fin cut you or something than a shark get you.”

 

Solomon Kawamae gave a tip that may come in handy if you ever find yourself in a situation where you are surfing and encounter a shark. 

 

“Put all your limbs on your surfboard, keep your eye on the shark and paddle away,” said Kawamae. “Paddle in slowly and try to stay calm. Sharks react to struggle and they go after easy targets.”